Tuesday, 18 December 2012

Tassie

I chose to come to Tasmania for its history and its supposedly beautiful landscape. I was not disappointed. I'd heard mixed things about it before I arrived, all Melburnians emphasised its small population. One man from Queensland was very bitter about 'the rest of Australia paying for Tasmanians' indulgent lifestyle', which seemed a bit extreme... I did wonder though when the airline I was flying there with said 'oh, don't worry about your ID' as I was checking in!




The first thing I noticed about Tasmania is that, compared to the rest of Australia, it is positively mountainous, covered in trees and that it has an unusually high number of roadkill. I am not alone in noticing the high numbers of trees; one Tasmanian told me how he'd gone to the UK and was surprised at how few trees there were. He was in Cumbria, asked someone about it and was very surprised when they replied 'Oh, the Normans got rid of those...' The trees are not only numerous, they are also rather beautiful with stripey trunks. I won't bother showing you the large number of attempts at artistic photos that I've taken of them...
Where I went for a swim on my bike ride!

The high amount of roadkill, given that there is a relatively low population in Tasmania, is, unsurprisingly, due to the large amount of wildlife. I was struck by this almost everywhere I went. Whilst on a bike ride I came across one wallaby, two kangaroos and an echidna (very exciting), whilst walking I saw two more wallabies, whilst driving I saw kookaburras and yellow tailed black cockatoos and, less fun, this is the place I got most mosquito-bitten too. I also saw Tasmanian devils, Australian fur seals and albatrosses, but I'd deliberately gone to see them, so I'm not sure it really counts. If I'd caught a later ferry, I also would have seen a pod of dolphins but unfortunately missed out on that.
Tasmanian Devil

I had a whole conversation with this wallaby...


I mostly stayed with Mandy, another family friend (to be honest, the links are getting increasingly obscure here, Mandy's parents showed me photos of when I'd last seen them and I was in my first term of school), who was extremely generous and let me stay on her boat for most of the time and lent me her car for a lot of it. That was brilliant and I think the best way to see Tassie is to drive around and see the very beautiful landscape. I did this around the Huon trail, which is quite close to where she lives, and also went for a sail with them around Peppermint Bay, much cheaper than paying for the cruise and much more fun.

In Mt Field National Park
The car also meant I was able to go up to Mt Field National Park, which was hot but good to walk around with lots of waterfalls and views, as well as able to drive up to stay with Mandy's parents in Coles Bay. This is near Freycinet National Park with Wineglass Bay in it. This may have been my favourite walk on Tasmania that I did, particularly as I was quite pleased by beating the estimated time quite significantly. (Unlike when I went for a bike ride on Bruny Island, that is extremely hilly!)
Wineglass Bay

I also went for a boat cruise around Bruny Island. This included a bus ride that really reminded me of the Flight of Conchords song. For example, 'the only Anglican Church on the island, the only place you can get roast penguin, etc. etc.' (Incidentally, the driver was asking me about sailing and compared Contessas to women 'they look good and they can take a thrashing', I wasn't sure what to say to that!) The cruise was a success though, masses of Australian fur seals, which was good fun and some cool bits of coastline. We also stopped at the 'Get shucked' van and I had the best oyster I've ever had, very much recommended.
Australian Fur Seals

'Get Shucked'
Bruny Island

I did do some things that weren't enjoying the landscape. I took a trip down to Port Arthur, which was where reoffending convicts were sent. It was a big area and in a very beautiful spot and I actually really enjoyed walking around it. They were at pains to emphasise that, whilst there were horror stories, the main aim was to reform convicts. Although they admitted this was more out of financial than moral interests. I did come away thinking that it did do that pretty effectively. They also had the beginnings of a welfare system there. It was a good trip as well as it's on the Tasman Peninsula, more interesting coastline and views.
Port Arthur

Tasman Arch on Tasman Peninsula

Tesselated Parvement on Tasman Peninsula
Tasman Peninsula
Driving back again...

I also visited MONA (Museum of Old and New Art). This was kind of amazing, more for the concept than the art. They clearly just had fun with an art gallery. It is on the waterfront a bit back from Hobart and all underground, the building is actually quite remarkable. Nothing is labelled, you have an iPhone type thing with GPS that, mostly reliably, gives you information on the art. If you want more information, you click on the 'art wank' button (!). It is also not organised by era, there is a lot of ancient Egyptian next to very recent pieces.
At MONA
In MONA, showing what was on news the most that day.. '2Day'
I also wandered around Hobart a bit. A great spot for a city, on the water with Mt Wellington behind it. I enjoyed Salamanca Market (doing Christmas shopping in the sun is much more cheerful!) and was taken to 'Rectangos', an outdoors bar with a band in a little square. I very much enjoyed my time in Tasmania, I was lucky with the weather and was really impressed by how beautiful it is. Not often included in trips to Australia, but I'd recommend it!
Hobart

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